As I might have mentioned earlier in the trip, it is turning out that I am more engaged in learning about what we are seeing than in a long time. I think this is so primarily because I want to record and report the monuments and history correctly equally for ourselves as well as anyone who might be reading and because we are traveling by ourselves and not passively with a tour.
The pace of the trip is grueling and the driving although very interesting wears. I am sore and everything hurts. Part is just tension.
For most of the trip we have been on narrow two lane roads that freeze during the winter and are not maintained like we in the US expect. People here drive very fast and it is dangerous and passing protocols vary from country to country.
Bob and I have fallen into a rhythm of cooperation and sharing the photos of the day, mutually determining what and what not to post. The mechanics of
posting still are mine since Bob does not know the program which is fine with me. When we first began blogging was a major lesson in Buddhist humility. letting go of self judgment and criticism. The other major life lesson is that we are both showing and feeling our age. It is painful and sad to see in each other the mirror of our own reduced stamina and agility.Today’s drive to Riga took us through beautiful rolling hills of lavender, mustard and various grains bouned by forest tracks. Today’s stretch of Lithuania to Riga appeared very prosperous except in the high rise clusters of decrepit Communist era apartment complexes. It seems that this is where the retirees from the former Soviet era are now housed and living out their lives. As soon as one is able, one escapes these concrete hovels if it can be accomplished.
In Riga, it as if we are in the middle of decorations on an enormous, deliciously rich and elaborately decorated wedding cake–frosting, frills and gorgeous colors. Gothic, spread on some “Neo” Baroque and then just go crazy with layering on Art Nouveau. Riga is designated a World Heritage site of their Art Nouveau district separately from the historical section. I was thinking that we might experience Swedish simplicity as an anecdote when we learned that Riga was a Swedish city in the late Middle Ages.
In the moment, the young people in all the major Baltic cities are healthy, vibrant and very fashionable. They are taking New York and European styles to the very edge. Bob is loving it.
- Note the Cat on the Top
- One Tired but Contented Trekker
- Trekkar II Too
- Fluffy not Stuffy
Klaipeda is like a time warp. Stark concrete buildings and people who look like they are still under Kruschev’s thumb. Women are squat, stocky in droopy housedresses, men are loud boistrous, singing and slapping one another on the back in comradeship. It is afterall Saturday night and we are being serenaded with Lithuanian drinking songs.
Drive from Vilnius was easy on a “freeway.” We are off to explore the Corian Spit tomorrow. Weather has turned hot. The abundant parklike green of frequent showers in Vilnius has been replaced by weeds, wilt and diminished hope.
Our visit to Vilnius has filled in a huge gap in our understanding of Baltic history. It has been an awakening to their rich heritage and all that they have lived through. Yet they are thriving today. Eight unsuccessful attempts by the Malbork mob trying to muscle in on their bustling burgher controlled economy to an absolutely devastating attempt by the Soviets to wipe their culture out, Lithuanians can only be admired for their amazing rise from subjegation.
Tomorrow, Saturday, July 10th, we are off to Klaipeda on the coast via Trakai and Kernave (archeological site).
Bob is doing a terrific job of driving and navagation with his handy little gps. My contribution thus far as been to shout stop for a photo op when it is virtually impossible on a two lane winding road. We are having a marvelous time!!!
Finishing up in Gdansk in the morning, we drove about 30 miles to Malbork Castle for an amazing tour of the on-going restoration of yet another World Heritage site. (Click on the pictures for some fun historical tidbits.) We then drove the backroads, byways and round-abouts through the Polish countryside. Green, prosperous appearing family farms cloak the rolling hills. Their boundaires often defined by hardwood forests or at least a line of old trees.
We are spending Thursday, July 8th in a delightful boutique hotel converted from a prosperous townhouse.
Thanks to all of you for the fun response notes and loving support. Blogging by the younger generation must be easier and fastser but for we ancients, it is fun too.
