Petrozavodsk–Shades of the Soviet Era

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Sep 122014
 

98737581_large_0_1b358_ea9119a8_XLPetrozavodsk is the capital of the Republic of Karelia extending along the western edge of Lake Onega. It is one of Russia’s thriving cities with many green parks and inviting squares flanking its broad, tree-lined avenues. With a university, the city has a large energetic student population and its proximity to Finland lends a markedly European atmosphere.

Literally meaning “Peter’s Factory”, the city was founded in 1703 to establish an iron foundry to manufacture and supply anchors for the Baltic Fleet during the Great Northern War between Russia and Sweden. Today the local economy is based on timber and paper manufacturing with some metal working. Employment rate is high and well paid jobs are prevalent.

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Petrozavodsk is a blend of Russian and local Karelian culture evident in the local cuisine and language. As the capital of Karelia, it is a local hub for nightlife and shopping, with several new shopping centers opening in recent years. Architecture of the city is mainly neo-classical, however some traditional wooden buildings can be found off of the beaten track.

Our day ended with a quite wonderful Karelian performance of folk dancing and live music.

Kizhi Island on Lake Onega

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Sep 122014
 

16409332-lgBeginning in the 14th century, Kizhi Island was part of an exchange route between Novgorod and the White Sea. By the 16th century about a hundred settlements populated Kizhi including neighboring islands and the entire area became known as Spas-Kizhi Pogost. By then it had become an important source of iron ore. In the 18th century, because Tzar Peter I had begun industrial reforms, several ore mines and metallurgy plants were built on the Onega Lake (at the current sites of the modern cities Medvezhyegorsk and Petrozavodsk).

These plants demanded hard physical labor–cutting forests for wood, coal burning, ground works–all performed by local peasants. The labor was forced. If they disobeyed peasants were punished by public beating and fines that sparked local riots. The largest riot occurred in 1769–1771 and is known as Kizhi Uprising. Ignited by a governor’s order to send peasants during the harvest season to work at a metallurgical plant, the peasants disobeyed and boycotted the order. They were soon joined by up to 40,000 people from all over Karelia. The revolt was based in the Kizhi Pogost. The rebels sent petitioners to St. Petersburg, but those emissaries were arrested and punished. A military corps was dispatched to suppress the uprising and arrived to Kizhi by the end of June, 1771. After artillery fire the rebel peasants quickly surrendered. The leaders and 50–70 other peasants were publicly beaten and sent to exile in Siberia. Many others were conscripted into military service which was another form of punishment of the time. However, the recruitment of peasants for the construction of local plants and mine stopped.

Today Kizhi Island now is noted for its open-air architectural museum and reserve. The museum’s invaluable collection of wooden churches and chapels have been relocated from other parts of northern Russia. Today’s visit was apparently a more typical fall day. Instead of sunny Indian Summer weather it was a cloudy misty cool day. Of interest was the preponderance of Russian travelers fulfilling a lifelong dream to visit Kizhi and see examples of their historical rural heritage.

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Svirstroy Village

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Sep 102014
 
Jenia Demonstrating the Samovar

Jenia Demonstrating the Samovar

Our Hostess Tatiana and Jenia

Our Hostess Tatiana and Jenia

Daughter's Room

Daughter’s Room

Welcoming Living Room

Welcoming Living Room

Tiny Bath

Tiny Bath

A Small but Productive Kitchen

A Small but Productive Kitchen

Tatiana Bidding Us a Friendly Farewell

Tatiana Bidding Us a Friendly Farewell

A working village in the north of Russia on Svir River where we had tea and piroshki with a local babushka. Tatiana who now lives with her college age daughter, has lived in this house since 1948, a 600 square foot duplex. During WW II the entire village of 30,000 occupants was totally obliterated and then rebuilt in its present configuration by Finnish POWs. Tatiana’s grandfather helped rebuild the power plant and locks and was provided the house. Like many of her neighbors she has lived here for over 60 years. Today the major employer in the village of 500 year round residents is the hydroelectric plant.

The Hermitage and more…

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Sep 092014
 

We go next to the Palace Embankment district. This neighborhood is rich with imperial ambition and is home to the Hermitage, a magnificent ensemble of buildings, of which the most resplendent is the Winter Palace. One side of The Hermitage complex overlooks and extends for one mile along the Neva River embankment. On the opposite side it borders the the Palace Square. Dominating the skyline is the golden dome of St. Isaac’s.

A view from Palace Square.

A view from Palace Square.

Dedicated to Tsar Alexander I and his victory over Napoleon.

Dedicated to Tsar Alexander I and his victory over Napoleon.

Catherine's Palace Catherine’s Palace[/caption]

Moscow:City Nights, Sights and Lights

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Sep 092014
 

Moscow is a 24/7 wide open vibrant city that is colorful, energetic and desirable destination for young Russians who seek opportunity and “success.” Traffic stands still at rush hour but also at many other times of the day and night. Expensive cars are an attainable status symbol for people who still live in their 600 square foot apartment in a city with a highly efficient and reasonably priced metro system. It feels like NYC.

Lighting the iconic buildings seems like a way to lure and/or keep Russians downtown. They fill the streets, strolling the plazas and “hanging out” in Red Square which looks like Disneyland. Check out the YouTube below to see university students living it up even in winter.