May 112014
 
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Off Our Balcony

At the extreme south of Croatia the city of Dubrovnik (Latin: Ragusa) was established and thrived on maritime trade. It became the only city-state in the Adriatic to rival Venice in the Middle Ages. Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy, the city achieved a remarkable level of development during the 15th and 16th centuries. Once an independent republic, it managed to survive many centuries, constantly under territorial threats from the mighty Ottoman Empire and Venice.

Historically Dubrovnik has been a center of the development of the Croatian language and literature, home to notable poets, playwrights, painters, mathematicians, physicists and other scholars. Early in the 19th century, it was discovered by celebrities as a place to be seen. George Bernard Shaw once said that “those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and find it”. Royalty, presidents and diplomats have all favored the city. The late Pope John Paul II was a fan of Dubrovnik and was even made an honorary citizen.

Dubrovnik remains a stunningly intact walled city easily accessible on the Adriatic Sea coast which can be overrun by tourists pouring off the luxury tour ships in the harbor.

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Off the Rampart Walls

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On the Strada et al

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Yet Another Gorgeous Day

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Savoring a Great Slow Foods Meal–Another Travel Hint From Susan S

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Departing Dubrovnik

May 102014
 

Wikipedia travel invitingly describes Sarajevo as one of the most historically interesting and varied cities in Europe. Set in a mountain valley, it is astounding to look out over the city and realize that for 1,300 days between 1992 and 1995 the city was under a medieval-style siege determined to cut off food, water, electricity and telephones. It was the longest lasting siege in modern European history. Then its population was about 300,000 and today it is still not a huge city.

We came in after a very long drive out of Bulgaria, across Serbia and into Bosnia finally climbing down alpine mountains and through narrow valleys into a city under lock down traffic control–the City Hall was opening after renovation and repair from the siege–all of Sarajevo was turned out to celebrate!! Redirected by the police and helped many times by locals we are in and settled surrounded by the buzz of celebration.

For the most part, the city has physically recovered from the majority of the war damage caused by the Yugoslav Wars. About 400.000 people live in its very livable, vibrant and busy urban areas. The bridge in Sarajevo is directly across the street from where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was killed by a Serbian assassin, setting in motion the beginning of and World War I.

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Last Stretch of Road into Sarajevo

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The View from our Room

Savoring Sarajevo

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May 102014
 
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Pigeon Square

Early this morning while the air was fresh we were out on the cobblestones of the Ottoman influenced old town, the Baščaršija. We started at “Pigeon Square,” nicknamed for the abundant flighty residents and right down the street from our hotel. The entire area felt like a mini-Istanbul with mosques and cramped markets and even a caravanserai which all blend seamlessly into the Hapsburg’s Sarajevo on Ferhadija Street with the Jewish quarter and the Catholic Cathedral and including the Markale covered market where the natives buy meet, cheese and eggs.

Moving down Maršala Street toward the highrise district, commercial and government buildings into Sniper Alley. Shelling scars still show on many buildings in this area. Memorials and tributes to the fallen of the war are present in every sector and every park. They are side by side against new skyscrapers and rennovated office and condominium complexes.

Today demonstrators were out in front of the President’s Residence protesting government corruption and unemployment. Sympathizers pounded their horns as they roared past. Apparently the “temporary” negotiated peace settlement brokered by American Richard Holbrook that was to replaced by a “real” constitution has never happened and the unwieldy and ineffectual layers of redundant government has led to massive corruption. Three branches of legislative bodies all have final veto so nothing ever gets passed. The presidency is apparently a triumvirate that has similar entrenchment issues, The economy, high unemployment and ethnic tensions all contribute to concerns for a fabulous resilient county and this treasure of a city

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Ever Present Scars of War

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Turban Shaped Tombstones

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Longhorns In Sarajevo

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Proud Bakers of our Savory Bosnian Meat Pies for Lunch

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May 062014
 

Today we drove from Bucharest to Sofia (София), capital of Bulgaria and is its largest city. We crossed the brown Danube and easily negotiated the border crossing. The drive was primarily through vast and thriving agricultural valleys with nestled villages and small towns some distance from the highway. The entire 250 miles was unblemished by industry or the urban sprawl that we had noticed in Romania. Development or industrial presence seems to be specifically confined to planned areas which for such small pocket sized country on the quilt of Europe seems wise.

Sofia is a bustling and busy government capital as well as the economic heart of the country. According to locals it is not a tourist destination. The blend of 19th century European and Communist-style architecture sharing neighborhoods with beautiful onion-domed orthodox churches and Ottoman mosques and entrenched Red Army monuments has a kind of shabby charm. The central government and historic district is dotted with lovely parks enjoyed by families and elders. The people hurrying along the busy streets are frequently very stylishly dressed in the latest American and European fashions and appear healthy. We are staying in the heart of the old city in a hotel that is built upon 4th century A.D.Roman ruins evident in open spaces in the hotel lobby and restaurant as an archeological site.

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Church of St. George

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Bozko Mural

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Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

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Around the Corner from our Hotel

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National Theater

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Guards Outside the President’s Building

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Guards Change on the Hour

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St. George Rotunda Began as a Roman Bath

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St. Sofia Patroness of Sofia

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A Icon Shopper

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Borisloff, Icon Painter and Vendor

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Sun Glinting of the Domes of the Memorial Church

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Alexander Nevski’s Memorial Church Cracker Barrell

May 062014
 

The Palace of Parliament, second in size only to the Pentagon, was our destination today. Begun in 1984 at a cost of 3.3 BILLION Euros Nicolae Ceauśeau had vast areas of invaluable architectural treasures razed to make for this grandiose pretentious madness of a monument to himself. The 330,000 square meters remains unfinished but is in part occupied the two Houses of Parliament and their supporting bureaucracies.

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The Palace

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A Committee of Sixty Seats

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The Theater

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One of Many Enormous Reception Spaces

Following our 3 hour tour of the Palace we had a 3 hour dinner that was without question the most amazing “molecular” food experience of my life.

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